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I found with joy that the South Indian seasoning podi – a rough grind of searingly hot, crudely milled spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Prepare six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if wooden, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 min
Serves 2

Four hundred grams firm potatoes, cut into 1.5-inch chunks
8 ounces paneer, diced into 0.8-inch cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
Half a teaspoon fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
One teaspoon chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated
1-inch piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
1 red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and let them dry from steam for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for five minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Pour the spice seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then pound or blitz to a chunky blend.

Transfer to a medium-large bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then carefully mix in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Thread the paneer, potatoes and onions on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then move to a sheet pan and set aside until needed – optionally, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Stir all the ingredients for the dressing in a mixing bowl. Heat the grill to its maximum heat, then cook the skewers for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, topped with a little more sea salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.